16Arlington Spring Summer 2024 collection

Marco Capaldo, co-founder of 16Arlington, has been on an impressive journey of reinvention and expansion since giving the brand a soft reboot last year, following the tragic loss of his partner, Kikka Cavenati. The brand, known for its feathered and sequined party dresses, has evolved under Capaldo's guidance, branching out into leather goods and menswear, all while maintaining a strong sense of self-assurance. Capaldo's achievements reached a pinnacle when he was awarded the prestigious BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund in May, solidifying his vision to build a new luxury house in London.

Continuing his relentless pursuit of excellence, Capaldo took the brand to new heights this season by emphasizing a sleeker and more elevated aesthetic. His inspiration for this collection was drawn from David Lynch's cult classic film, "Lost Highway." However, true to the film's enigmatic narrative and mysterious visuals, Capaldo approached it with a non-literal interpretation. He explained, "I was more inspired by snippets of dialogue and the way it's lit," highlighting the collaboration with art director Olu Odukoya, who created curved seating with lines from the film spelled across them. Capaldo aimed for a sense of duality, blurring the lines between dreams and reality, prompting a double take from the audience.

The collection opened with shimmering skirts and dresses adorned with paillettes, which upon closer inspection, were revealed to be crafted from translucent latex. The color palette transitioned from white to delicate shades of red, blue, and gray. Towards the end, a trio of looks appeared to be made of oversized silvery sequins, but the models' movement revealed the unmistakable rustle of metal. Shoes featured fluttering circular cut-outs with graphics inspired by Lynch's film, drawn from a Japanese book Capaldo acquired.

The polished metal details also nodded to the exhilaration of nighttime city driving, capturing the feeling of hitting the road and realizing the boundless possibilities ahead. The palette, reminiscent of tinted halogen headlights and raindrops on a windshield, showcased glossy red and super-saturated cyan, creating an almost inkjet-printed effect. High heels were adorned with rubber tentacles akin to car wash brushes, balancing playful humor with fetishistic sex appeal.

The collection also featured gowns with curved, pannier-like ridges resembling molded car exteriors, while others were crafted from factory-curtain latex, with ostrich feathers hand-tacked to a layer of tulle for a striking effect. Capaldo's "double-take trickery" resulted in visually captivating and tactile garments.

Notably, this season witnessed a shift towards looser and more relaxed styling, with Wall Street-inspired shirting paired with sequined skirts, sweatshirt fabrics transformed into elegant trousers, and oversized versions of the Kikka bag, held closely to the models' chests. Capaldo successfully translated his cinematic inspiration into practical yet stunning clothing, propelling 16Arlington into new horizons with unwavering confidence.