Marking 40 years in the business, Moschino's Spring/Summer 2024 show transcended the typical runway experience, evolving into a multi-act play crafted by four close associates of the House: Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu, and Katie Grand. This unique spectacle seamlessly blended archive-inspired fashion with the performing arts.
The entire collection drew inspiration from the iconic silhouettes of Franco Moschino from the '80s and '90s. Each of these four creators independently developed their own vision boards, aiming to showcase the founder's distinctive style from four different perspectives.
The venue was set with grand red curtains that dramatically unveiled Cerf de Dudzeele's creations in Act One. Accompanied by centuries-old music, the French stylist paid tribute to Franco's enduring legacy. The designs featured white double-breasted suits paired with gray pleated trousers and black turtlenecks, complemented by charming heart-shaped bags. While the silhouettes remained mostly understated, they were elevated with opulent necklaces and earrings, striking a perfect balance between sophistication and extravagance.
Karefa-Johnson took the stage for Act Two, infusing it with her unique energy. She explained, "I drew heavily from recreating and updating styles from the early '90s shows to refresh the silhouettes and fabrics but still wanted to preserve that same vibrant energy—let's call it NOWstalgia!" Her capsule collection reimagined Franco's iconic cowboy hats, statement jewelry, and crochet dresses for the contemporary woman, with Beyonce's "PURE/HONEY" setting the energetic backdrop.
Act Three introduced Liu's romantic lineup, which took a conceptual approach inspired by Franco's famous "Protect Me from Fashion System" T-shirt. The collection exuded an ethereal quality, featuring an abundance of gold accents, heart-shaped hardware, and floral embroidery adorning fluffy, ruched, and delicate silhouettes.
Grand took the spotlight for Act Four, delivering a range that was both tasteful and provocative. She explained, "[Franco's] use of slogans was deeply appealing, and the idea of LOUD LUXURY came to me quite quickly. It felt current." The collection indeed made a bold statement, with bodysuits featuring massive question marks and exclamation points, bold outlines of the human form in black and white, and colossal lettering proclaiming "LOUD LUXURY!"
To enhance the spectacle, Grand's collection featured top-tier dancers performing choreography by Wayne McGregor, the artistic director of Studio Wayne McGregor and the resident choreographer for The Royal Ballet. She noted, "Franco's shows were always conceptual, and that was their intrinsic appeal to me."
Act Five brought music into the spotlight, with Laura Marzadori performing a violin rendition of "I Am What I Am," paying homage to Moschino's Fall/Winter 1986 fashion show. As the instrumental piece filled the room, the cast of models reemerged, wearing charitable T-shirts created in collaboration with the Elton John AIDS Foundation. These shirts are now available for purchase on the brand's website and at its Milan flagship store, adding a meaningful touch to the remarkable show.
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