Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show

Spring 2024 has emerged as a season with a strong emphasis on wearability and a return to fashion fundamentals. At the Saint Laurent runway show, set against the luminous backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, creative director Anthony Vaccarello embraced this concept with a creative twist, drawing inspiration from the fashion house's iconic archives. The presentation featured reinterpretations of classic Saint Laurent pieces like the safari jacket and jumpsuits, complemented by a captivating soundtrack from French producer Sebastian and a poetic voiceover by Catherine Deneuve, creating a sensory experience for the star-studded audience.

Among the 49 looks in this collection, nearly all paid homage to the timeless Saint Laurent silhouettes, including the caftan-style dress. Vaccarello, in his signature style, infused the collection with his own aesthetic, transforming the traditional beiges and tans into striking brick reds, saffron yellows, and deep marigold shades. The show notes described the collection's stance as pragmatic, featuring couture-inspired daytime ensembles and a looser silhouette compared to previous seasons. The designer drew inspiration from influential women such as Amelia Earhart and the French test pilot Adrienne Bolland, as well as the concept of feminizing elements from the male wardrobe—an idea deeply rooted in the brand's history, echoing Yves Saint Laurent's own empowering ethos.

This theme of reimagining masculinity with femininity was evident in the slouchy, oversized silhouettes, often cinched at the waist and further enhanced by bold, sculptural metal earrings adorning the models' ears. Some models sported leather aviation-style bonnets, while others flaunted neatly stacked silver and gold bangles on gloved arms. High-shine jewelry played a central role, ranging from classic metal chokers to gold belt buckles anchoring chunky cargo pants and '70s-inspired wrap dresses. Saint Laurent's iconic accessories made their mark, including sky-high heels and leather gloves.

A subtle interplay of textures added intrigue to the collection. Sheer tank tops and delicate gossamer stockings contrasted with robust khaki fabrics. While utilitarianism was a dominant theme, the collection introduced fresh spring trends, such as styling bangles over gloves or experimenting with mixed metals in unconventional ways. If this collection is any indication, Spring 2024 may herald the return of belted jumpsuits and modified safari jackets, all while embracing the trend of generously sized pockets.