Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 Fashion Show

Tom Ford Spring Summer 2024 collection fashion show

How do you fill the shoes of Tom Ford? Peter Hawkings, the recently appointed creative director of the label, is perhaps one of the best-suited individuals for the task. He has a 25-year history of working alongside Ford, dating back to their days at Gucci. Ford's signature style, characterized by glamour, sexiness, elegance, and beauty, is deeply ingrained in Hawkings.

Unlike many designer transitions that bring new directions and ideas, Hawkings' role is about maintaining consistency and unity. Prior to Ford's departure, he handled women's fashion from Los Angeles, while Hawkings oversaw menswear from London. This often resulted in a disconnect between the two. Hawkings aims to bridge that gap, bringing women's and men's fashion closer together to create a unified universe.

In the runway show, women and men appeared more closely aligned, sharing materials, color palettes, and a penchant for wearing shirts unbuttoned low. However, the short shorts were exclusive to women. The collection felt like a greatest hits compilation, featuring iconic elements like the sculpted belt buckle from Ford's legendary 1996 Gucci show, reimagined in a long black dress with an exposed back.

Quality was another key focus for Hawkings, with the Ermenegildo Zegna Group overseeing the licensing. Ensuring exceptional craftsmanship and comfort in shoes, as well as elevating tailoring to match the men's standards, was a priority. The women's velvet pantsuits, inspired by another iconic Gucci collection by Ford, were particularly noteworthy, showcasing Hawkings' expertise in this category.

The only missing element at this Tom Ford show was Tom Ford himself, who had been scheduled to attend but couldn't make it due to inclement weather in London. Hawkings emphasized Ford's support and praised his attention to detail. Ford's words of encouragement and belief in the event's glamour were well-placed.

Hawkings' next challenge will be to evolve his own creative voice and look toward the future. As Ford once noted, fashion thrives on novelty, requiring a constant reinvention of elements that are simultaneously shocking, stunning, and beautiful. Hawkings is poised to carry this legacy forward.