Vivienne Westwood Fall/Winter 2024-25 Fashion Show

The fashion world continues to feel the impact of Vivienne Westwood's legacy, particularly after her passing on December 29, 2022. Andreas Kronthaler, her husband and creative collaborator, has taken the reins of the British fashion house, honoring her influential forty-year journey in the industry. This season, Kronthaler presents 'The Tailor,' a collection that serves as a fitting tribute to Westwood's extraordinary contributions to fashion and activism.

Upon entering the show venue, guests were immediately immersed in a setting that defied conventional expectations. Center stage was occupied by the musical group Sons of Sissy, known for blending humor with experimental dance, surrounded by an array of tools including axes and chainsaws. This unusual setting paved the way for a runway show that was as much a theatrical experience as a fashion statement.

The collection drew heavily on historical references, a passion shared by Kronthaler and Westwood. Kronthaler's inspiration was sparked by a Milanese exhibition of Giovanni Battista Moroni, a renowned 16th-century Italian portraitist. This artistic encounter transported Kronthaler back to the early days of his collaboration with Westwood in the late 1980s. Their first Spring/Summer collection in 1991, titled 'Cut and Slash,' delved into the Renaissance, setting a precedent for this latest collection.

Kronthaler skillfully interwove elements from the late 1600s, a period marking the twilight of the Renaissance. The collection featured nightshirts, perforated materials, breeches, and voluminous trousers typical of the era. Yet, Westwood's signature punk aesthetic was unmistakably present, manifesting in plaid patterns, patchwork fabrics, and the playful juxtaposition of masculine and feminine elements. A notable shift in this collection was the prominent use of black, a nod to the elegance of the Renaissance era, which adorned long dresses, thigh-high boots, and oversized cardigans.

The casting for the show was as eclectic and vibrant as the collection itself. Singer Sam Smith made a striking appearance, embodying an eccentric shepherd, followed by top models like Amelia Gray, Lila Moss, and Kristen McMenamy, who brought their unique charisma to the runway.