David Koma SS27 Campaign Brings ’90s Figure Skating Glamour to Crystal, Satin and Feather Dresses

David Koma is heading back to the rink for Spring/Summer 2027, and he’s brought the glitter. The London-based designer’s new collection takes its cue from 1990s competitive figure skating, a world of rhinestone-covered costumes, obsessive precision and big-drama femininity. Tonya Harding, with her raw athleticism and fierce drive to win, is the spirit behind the whole thing.

The most obvious nod to the ice is a crystal spiral motif, inspired by the figures skaters trace on the surface. It shows up as embroidery, oversized jewelry and sculptural cut-outs, each spiral centered with mother-of-pearl. Elsewhere, satin is gathered into circular openings, and transparent black mesh creates geometric windows across the body.

Koma’s signature feather plumes are back, adding movement to tops and skirts. Rows of fringe stitched onto rigid boning create fluid, almost living silhouettes, like a skater mid-spin. The campaign shows this clearly in a pink asymmetric cut-out top with cascading fringe, worn over a sheer, floor-sweeping pink skirt with a train. A satin puff-sleeve mini with a fringe skirt hits the same note in a shorter version.

Then there’s the warm-up wardrobe. Satin bombers are paired with voluminous shorts, and protective jackets get layered over dresses. In the pictures, a mint satin jacket with belt ties and a ruched pink satin bralette with a bubble mini skirt carry that sporty-meets-sugary mood, while a white tee with ruffled pink sheer shorts gives a more relaxed take. A metallic mint knit gown, a long, backless, body-skimming column, pushes the collection into properly sensual territory. A crystal-studded nude top with oversized hoop earrings finishes things off.

Shot on an empty road at dusk, with fog, palm trees and towering platform heels in pink, turquoise, clear and white, the campaign has a cool, moody backdrop that makes the pastels pop.

The palette moves between candyfloss pink, rose, soft mint and bright ivory, punctuated by liquid silver, black and all-over crystal embellishment. It’s the kind of collection that would have made your childhood figure skating fantasies come true.

David Koma has plenty of celebrity fans, as seen in Maya Jama’s strapless David Koma snakeskin gown at the Serpentine Summer Party. Another great example is Gigi Hadid’s custom David Koma halter gown at the Breakthrough Prize.