Marni Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show

When Francesco Risso reminisced about his teenage years, he recalled a visit to Paris to see a friend who lived on the same street as the legendary Karl Lagerfeld. Together, they would eagerly gaze out the window, hoping for a glimpse of the world's most renowned fashion designer.

Fast forward to six months ago when Risso was in search of a venue to host his latest Marni fashion show, part of his traveling showcase that had previously stopped in Tokyo and New York City. He found himself exploring the Hôtel Pozzo di Borgo, an opulent 18th-century residence that he likened to "a little Versailles." To his surprise, this grand mansion was once the home of Karl Lagerfeld.

The experience left Risso nearly breathless, as he felt a profound energy and emotion within those walls, knowing that Lagerfeld had dedicated his life to the pursuit of beauty. Risso shared his sentiments during a preview held at the French headquarters of parent company OTB, where he and his team had transformed the space with hand-painted cardboard panels. "We Marni-fied it," he proudly declared.

The same spirit of Marni's unique identity resonated in the show's venue. Instead of adapting the collection to the temporary location, Risso asserted his brand's signature style with a coed lineup that celebrated Marni's codes, such as stripes, checks, and florals, but with an unapologetically eccentric twist.

Guests, including Usher, Joshua Hong from the K-pop band Seventeen, and Erykah Badu, who sported an even larger hat than usual, sat on winding inflatable tubes as models strutted by in an array of outfits, from barely-there slipdresses to lampshade skirts adorned with layers of printed blooms.

The diverse cast, some resembling all-night rave enthusiasts, donned a mix of weathered leather jackets and structured tailoring in checkered intarsia knits or woven leather. The gender-fluid options included swinging babydoll dresses, form-fitting ribbed knits, and floor-length pencil skirts.

While pinpointing a single unifying idea proved challenging, Risso drew inspiration from the French people's love of beauty and their knack for street protests. He expressed his thoughts on joy, emphasizing that it requires hard work, commitment, focus, and can be an act of rebellion.

The collection showcased hero pieces like pannier dresses reminiscent of Marie Antoinette (although Risso insisted she wasn't the inspiration) and 3D dresses meticulously crafted from dozens of tin cans transformed into metallic flowers.

Risso's creative direction has taken Marni further from its roots as a symbol of quirky yet chic Milanese style. He's intentionally provocative, aiming to make an impact. "I would love for people to really be able to touch the pieces, or the pieces to touch people — to slap people, let’s say," he jokingly added. Consider us thoroughly intrigued by his rebellious, joyous vision.