Pierre Cardin Spring Summer 2024 Fashion Show

In a moment that could soon find its place in the Guinness World Records, Alva Chinn stole the spotlight on the opening night of Paris Fashion Week. She proudly claimed the title of the first model to walk for all ten brands that participated in the historic Battle of Versailles, an iconic fashion showdown that pitched five U.S. designers against the crème de la crème of France's couturiers.

Backstage at the Pierre Cardin show, held in a futuristic building designed by Oscar Niemeyer, Chinn, a seasoned U.S. model, jubilantly declared, "I've completed my bucket list." She graced the runway in a striking light gold jacket adorned with a sculptural silver buckle, marking her return to Paris five decades after the charitable gala that etched American fashion and African American models into history.

Reflecting on her earlier experience, Chinn confessed, "Back then, I was not impressed with Cardin's work. I was so turned off by the spaceships and all the accoutrements." However, a visit to the Cardin retrospective at the Brooklyn Museum in 2019 prompted her to reconsider her stance. She admitted, "I was like, what an idiot I was. This man did some beautiful things."

Today, the Cardin brand is making headlines, not so much for its designs, but for the heated succession battle unfolding among Pierre Cardin's 22 descendants. Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, the great-nephew who assumed control of the house following the passing of the Space Age couturier in 2020 at the age of 98, claims to have a handwritten will naming him as the sole heir.

However, other family members are challenging the validity of this document, advocating for the sale of the fashion house and its assets, with the proceeds divided among them. Despite the looming court battle, Basilicati-Cardin remains resolute in his determination to preserve the business. He explained, "When I saw the will that my uncle wrote, my mind felt settled. It became my mission. If that's what he wanted for me, that's what I have to do, so I'm really focused on the creative side and traveling to meet all of our licensees. As for the rest, I think justice will take its course."

His spring collection bore the mark of his fascination with space, a passion that has led the brand to collaborate with Thales Alenia Space, known for building satellites that gather critical environmental data. The runway displayed dresses and tops adorned with metallic appliqué shells and corals, as Basilicati-Cardin emphasized the importance of utilizing the oceans to secure our future, remarking, "Plan B is not some distant planet."

Some of the outfits transported onlookers to a "Star Trek" convention with cape-back coats and dresses embellished with oversized circles, evoking the futuristic spirit of Cardin's heyday during the 1960s youthquake. While certain tailored looks may appear somewhat dated today, the brand's colorblock Op Art shifts remain relevant and chic.

Additionally, Basilicati-Cardin is pursuing plans to resurrect Maxim's, the legendary restaurant that once hosted luminaries from Jackie Kennedy to Andy Warhol. He has entrusted its management to Paris Society, the renowned hospitality group behind popular establishments like Girafe and Apicius, with intentions to reopen in mid-October. He shared his hopes, saying, "I would love to see it back to how it was in the '80s."